One reason why I'm not an academic

While I like reading articles like this, I couldn't imagine spending the time to research and write it. Reading Our Lips: The History of Lipstick Regulation in Western Seats of Power

Keep your eye peeled for the "rate of rouge adoption = rate of industrialization" argument:

"...Thus, overall the English lagged far behind their former American subjects in lipstick use. The first department store makeup counter opened at New York’s B. Altman’s in 1867. (128) That same year, Harriet M. Fish of New York patented a lip and cheek rouge pad colored with carmine, strawberry juice, beet juice, and hollyhock root.(129) Americans’ few previous qualms about lipstick lingered on, but Americans generally plunged ahead in using and developing lip rouge much as they pulled ahead of England in industrialization.(130)

This 87 page paper has 575 citations.

That's right. FIVE HUNDRED AND SEVENTY FIVE.

In